游 · 京都

今天岛国的街头比昨天更冷，一早从SHIMANO总部附近经过没留意，据说SHIMANO总部除了提供参观是不允许游客拍照的，因为时间紧凑所以也没留心去看，吃了东西就直奔地铁站，清早的地铁站看不到啥人，上了地铁车厢也是空空几个人，我和小象找了后排的位置坐了下来，在枚方这转车去京都大概也就半个小时，这边上了车人比较多，我发现日本人在地铁上是真的喜欢看书，除了我身边坐着的小女孩在刷facebook，坐在小象周围的人都在看书，我一时间无聊四处张望，看着窗外透过车窗都能感觉到外面的冰冷空气。

没多久便到了京都，琵琶湖就在这附近了，只是这么冷的天气估计也是没法釣魚了，毕竟现在是琵琶湖禁渔时期，可能是早饭没吃饱出了站台就有点饿了，看了下地铁站附近有卖中國小笼包的，150岡一个！算了，我还是忍忍吧，毕竟我这样的大胃，一顿包子可能要吃掉一千多日元，包里还带了饭团呢，找到歇脚的地方再吃。出了地铁站沿着公路走没多一会就到了伏见稻荷大社，既然来都来了也去逛一逛吧，毕竟景点还是很有名气的。

一路上都是游客，人流非常密集，我还是很饿的但实在不好意思在公共场合吃便当。小象还在吐槽日本的小笼包这么贵，就算我再怎么饿不会给我买，哈哈哈，好吧我是真的嘴馋又不喜欢吃冰冷的便当饭团。走了没多久我看见有老外在用自拍杆拍照，看样子是欧洲人，不是听说日本公共场合旅游景区不可使用自拍杆么？也没有人来制止，日本人不是很讨厌没有常识得冒犯吗？其实我觉得这种规定不要只是因为肤色刻意针对人群就好。

走近伏见稻荷大社，让我印象最深的是门口两旁的大红柱子和屋檐下的牌匾，让我第一时间想到的是影视作品西游记中的唐皇宫，就连牌匾的颜色和形状都一摸一样，也难怪这座建筑刚好是一千二百多年前建的，时间上吻合中国当时的唐朝鼎盛时期日本常来中土学习的那段历史，日本这个国家在文化上受唐朝熏陶不浅，无论是建筑艺术宗教等很多中国古老的文化传统日本都传承至今，怎么说呢历史恩怨让大多数中国老百姓真的很难放下，但不得不承认他们也是中国古代文化的旁支。

穿过大社走上了山路，一路上都是一排排鳥居，这应该是日本本土标志性的建筑了，柱子上都雕刻了捐赠人的名字，可能多数都是公司法人吧，因为来这里祈愿的都是希望生意昌隆的。没多久就走到了半山腰，在一处神龛附近有几只身材走形的野猫，看样子经常有人投喂啊完全无视路人，日子过得不错，靠山别墅不愁吃喝只管卖萌，还有一只野猫干脆趴在狐狸石像上睡觉，甚至摸他逗他依然旁若无人的眯着眼睛，猫咪真是个有个性的生物。

到了山顶终于可以坐下来休息喘口气了，虽然山不是很高，路还是很陡的，上来视野还不错可以鸟瞰整个京都府，京都虽然没什么高楼大厦但这里可是日本文化底蕴最深厚的城市之一，就似古代中国的咸阳现在的西安古都一样，我还是很喜欢这种有历史痕迹的城市，相比大阪或是东京我更喜欢京都一点。

关西之旅

本想从香港飞大阪，可是最近香港不太平啊，只好选择更远的白云机场了，大半夜的坐飞机实在太累，一上飞机就睡了，等到飞机下降时才被飞机给吵醒，好在补了几个小时的睡眠，一下飞机取得行李第一件事是检查鱼竿，我带的是喜玛诺沙湖啦旅行竿，出门携带挺方便的，不过我的行李箱却是刚好和竿子长度尺寸一样的，刚好放进去，就怕托运时磕碰竿子要是有啥闪失那可凉凉了。

出机场坐摆渡车去地铁站，在地铁站买东西的时候店员找零的硬币中居然有中国的硬币，大概坐了一个小时的地铁才到达难波，出了地铁站直奔酒店，这里有段路程走过去也得半个小时，定的酒店在淀川附近，靠近中央区的梅田站了，这里有几个大型钓具卖场，等去酒店安顿好在慢慢逛吧。毕竟凌晨坐的飞机，日本可比国内南方冷多了，这时也来不及在路边多看什么了只想赶紧找到酒店补充下睡眠再说，途中经过公共吸烟区，看到一群日本人聚在一起吞云吐雾，我也憋不住了，不过我还没打开烟盒子已经抽饱了他们的二手烟，看这些烟民应该都是上班族，各个好像刚出门，可是现在日本都快十一点了，这个点上班的么？都说日本节奏快，不过如此吧，深圳的节奏才让我感觉生活充满了压迫感。

从难波走过来穿过新斋桥终于到达了酒店，附近是韩国驻日本大使馆，酒店房间小了点该有的都有，但是楼下大厅的美女沟通有点困难，日本人的英语发音真的听不懂，好在我们说的英文他还听得懂。安顿好后第一件事出门找吃的。这附近都是拉面馆，只能随意解决了，接下来在拉面馆发生一件很尴尬的事情，我们找好位置坐下来点好餐以后我主动跑去给服务员钱，结果服务员以为我是想给小费，很礼貌的用手语告诉我她不能收这钱，我说英语解释可她也听不懂，一时间两人都很尴尬，我和她都傻笑了，随后她可能悟懂了我的意思转身用手指着收银台我才明白，真是尴尬啊。


吃完回到酒店上床就睡了，一直到晚上七八点才醒来，趁着还早去附近逛逛吧，日本跟东北一样，到了晚上九点后很多小店和商场开始打烊了，还挺冷清的，新斋桥游客多点倒是挺热闹，别的街道基本上看不到什么人了，在河道边上有家一兰面馆，看着排队的人挺多我也凑了过去，服务生很热情，因为我们是中国人？我前面还排了好几个白人，但服务生一直用日语和手势指引我，我只好跟着他走，绕过面馆直接从旁边门口上了面馆二楼，这时我才反应过来这哥们原来真是带我们中国人插队啊，到了二楼后可以用自助机器下单，一碗豚骨拉面差不多九十人民币，再点了一杯日本本土的啤酒三十多块钱，选好餐以后找了个位置坐下来，顺便说下一兰在香港也是挺有名的，但是日本的价格更便宜，口味应该更正宗吧。

出来时十点多了，找了个便利店买了一堆零食做明天的口粮，毕竟酒店里的自助餐不好吃还很贵，回酒店第一件事就是泡澡，点了根烟又开了一瓶酒泡在水里不想出来了，可能是太舒服了泡了一个多小时差点在里面睡着了，哈哈哈哈

DIY Rainbow Trout Taxidermy and Mount （转）

转载:https://www.huntressview.com/post/2019/02/11/diy-rainbow-trout-taxidermy-and-mount

Let me start out by saying I love to fish! In fact, I want to mount everything I catch. My taxidermy bill was getting to high for fish and I knew I had to do something about that. I started thinking that if I can mount game animals, why not try to mount my own fish. Fish taxidermy and mounts are much different than big game, so I studied up on the process and ordered the Research Mannikin video, which was extremely helpful. I also invested in an airbrush, paint and forms.

There are so many steps to mounting a fish. I always like to try and use every real body part I can from the fish, which saves money by not having to order artificial heads.

Step-by-Step Instructions to Mounting a Rainbow Trout

STEP 1---Color Guide

The first steps when you catch a fish you want mount is to take several color photographs of it while it is fresh. The longer you wait, the more the color will fade. These photos will serve as a guide later when you are painting the mount. If you're unable to take your own pictures, you can reference pictures online or in other photos.

STEP 2---Measurements

You will need to take accurate measurements of the fish, which can be done while in the field or once you arrive home. Using a cloth measuring tape or seamstress tape is best to get the most accurate size. Measure around the thickest part of the belly and measure the total length. Round off to the nearest whole number.

STEP 3---Skinning

Think about how you want it facing on the wall and that will determine what side you will start skinning. Skin right down the middle of the fish and carefully start peeling back the skin. It’s very thin so it's important to be very careful so you don't cause damage. When you reach the dorsal fin on the fish’s back, use sharp scissors to clip the fin at the base, leaving it attached to the skin; Do the same with all other fins. You will need to cut off the adipose fin and just rebuild one later.

Using the scissors, clip the bone behind the gill. Skin as far as you can go, then you should be able to separate the head from the body. The head should remain attached to the skin.

STEP 4---Cleaning

Clean out the skull, removing all surplus meat, remove the eyes, tongue and gills. Remove the bone so you can get into the brain cavity. Scrape off all the meat and fat off the skin. Make sure to do this on a clean surface because even the tiniest pebble can put a hole in the skin if you scrape over it. If you’re going to use an artificial head, you can just cut the head off.

Wash the skin in cool water and Dawn dish soap. It's good to let it soak for about an hour, then rinse well. It’s now time to degrease the skin. Lay it flat and shake table salt (doesn’t matter if it’s iodized or not) all over the skin on both sides. Roll it up in newspaper, put it in a plastic bag and set it in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours.

When refrigeration is done, remove and rinse off all the salt. It’s always good to soak it in cold water for about an hour to rehydrate before working with it.

STEP 5---Mounting

While your fish is soaking, paint the form all white. Lay a towel down to put the fish on, remove from the water and rub Borax on the inside of skin. This helps preserve the skin so it won’t decay and helps to kill the odor.

Take the form and rub hide paste on one side at a time while putting your fish over the form, this will help not make such a big mess! You will need to build up the base of the fins and all the cartilage that was cut off using mache. The most important part here is to not over stretch your hide when you’re pulling it around the form, since this will loosen your scale. I made this mistake with my first fish.

It’s fine that the skin doesn’t touch together on the bag; you will have gap. You are now ready to staple the skin on the backside using a staple gun. I prefer using the 13mm ceiling tile staples the best; they are very sharp and don’t cause the skin to bunch. Leave at least 2” from the tail not stapled, so you can build it up with mache.

Smooth the skin, trying to get any bubbles out. Cut some strips of cardboard, and set behind each fin and spread the fins to their natural shape, anchoring it on either side with a bobby pin. Let it dry.

For the back seam where the staples are, you will need to fill that gap. Rub Magic Smooth in the gap and then apply clear adhesive cocking. Spread it out and make it smooth. Go ahead and put the eyes in; you’ll have to build up the eye socket with clay. After the fish dries, it’s good to put Tiff Fin on all the fins which helps protect them from splitting.

STEP 6---Painting

Now comes to what is perhaps the most important step of all. A poor mount with a first class paint job will appear more realistic than an amazing mount with a horrible paint job. Additionally, fish can change color with UV light over time.

I had never used an airbrush to paint before, so paper was my friend for a while before I actually started to paint the fish. It's important to practice some and get used to how the airbrush works before starting on the fish. Once I start painting the fish, I always start on the backside before spraying the side that will be visible.

For best results wipe the body with lacquer thinner, then spray the entire fish with Super Fish Sealer. Now it’s time to paint. Use a light color base all over the body--I used the color chrome. Then I used super hide white to spray the belly and under the jaw. Make pepper markings on the lower jaw and nose, which is best done with gauze. Use white pearl all over entire body, dark green down the back and shimmering gold over the green. I repeat that step a couple times. Rub a little antique gold oil paint stick over the back. When painting, it's all about layering colors...don’t expect to get the color you want with one spray. I use a lot of shimmering colors to make it look as realistic as possible, but it really depends on what your fish looks like, as to what colors you should use.

Color list for a rainbow trout:

• Chrome

• White

• White Pearl

• Dark Green

• Med Green

• Shimmering Violet

• Shimmering Gold

• Violet

• Gill Red

• Candy Apple Red

• Oil Paint Stick- Antique Gold

When you're halfway done, apply a coat of gloss. Let it dry, then start painting again. Make sure to paint the fins. Making the spots was very hard for me; on my first fish, the spots where awful. I made a slight improvement on the second one though.

Learning the airbrush and using different needles for different size sprays definitely takes time and experience to master. This year I ordered a single action airbrush, so we will see how it goes. After you’re finished with painting, spray with the gloss finish. You can clean the eyes off with a Q-tip and lacquer thinner. Let it dry completely and your mount is finished.

The best part, picking a spot to display your catch!